Bill Text: NY A08624 | 2023-2024 | General Assembly | Introduced

NOTE: There are more recent revisions of this legislation. Read Latest Draft
Bill Title: Relates to the practice of natural hair care and braiding; creates an apprenticeship in such area; makes conforming technical changes.

Spectrum: Partisan Bill (Democrat 1-0)

Status: (Introduced) 2024-05-20 - print number 8624b [A08624 Detail]

Download: New_York-2023-A08624-Introduced.html



                STATE OF NEW YORK
        ________________________________________________________________________

                                          8624

                   IN ASSEMBLY

                                    January 12, 2024
                                       ___________

        Introduced  by M. of A. PRETLOW -- read once and referred to the Commit-
          tee on Economic Development

        AN ACT to amend the general business law, in relation to the practice of
          natural hair care and braiding

          The People of the State of New York, represented in Senate and  Assem-
        bly, do enact as follows:

     1    Section  1.  The article heading of article 27 of the general business
     2  law, as added by chapter 509 of the laws of 1992, is amended to read  as
     3  follows:
     4                     LICENSING OF NAIL SPECIALTY, NATURAL
     5                      HAIR [STYLING] CARE AND BRAIDING,
     6                          ESTHETICS AND COSMETOLOGY
     7    §  2. Subdivisions 3 and 5 of section 400 of the general business law,
     8  subdivision 3 as added by chapter 509 of the laws of 1992  and  subdivi-
     9  sion  5  as  amended  by chapter 343 of the laws of 1998, are amended to
    10  read as follows:
    11    3. "Licensee" means a person licensed  pursuant  to  this  article  to
    12  engage  in  the  practice  of  natural hair [styling] care and braiding,
    13  esthetics, nail specialty or cosmetology, or to  operate  an  appearance
    14  enhancement  business  in  which  such  practice,  as herein defined, is
    15  provided to the public.
    16    5. a. The practice of "natural hair [styling] care and braiding" means
    17  providing for a fee, or any consideration or exchange, whether direct or
    18  indirect, any of the following services to the hair of  a  human  being:
    19  with  all ranges of hair types and textures, consulting and scalp analy-
    20  sis, hair texture assessment, shampooing, conditioning, providing clean,
    21  botanical and sustainable beauty products which include  clarifying  and
    22  moisturizing  shampoos, leave-in conditioners and steam hydration condi-
    23  tioning, scalp treatments, wellness  practices,  hydration  and  protein
    24  strengthening    treatments,   clays,   masks,   essential   oils,   and
    25  herbal/botanical rinses, arranging, dressing, twisting,  coiling,  wrap-
    26  ping,  weaving, extending, locking, palm rolling or braiding the hair or
    27  beard by either hand or  mechanical  [appliances]  equipment,  including
    28  using  clips,  combs,  crochet  needles,  latch-hook tools, interlocking

         EXPLANATION--Matter in italics (underscored) is new; matter in brackets
                              [ ] is old law to be omitted.
                                                                   LBD13808-03-4

        A. 8624                             2

     1  tools, sewing blunt-tipped and curve needles, beading  pliers,  curlers,
     2  rods,  rollers,  hairpins, scissors, thread and yarn for styling natural
     3  textured hair or braids on all ranges of hair types and textures.
     4    b.  Such  practice  shall  not  include  cutting,  shaving or trimming
     5  natural hair except that such activities are permissible to  the  extent
     6  that  such activities are incidental to the practice of minor hair shap-
     7  ing or trimming of naturally textured hair after  the  installation  and
     8  finishing  of  braid  hair extensions, natural hair styling, and natural
     9  hair braiding.
    10    c. Such practice shall not include the application of  dyes,  reactive
    11  chemicals,  or  other  preparations to alter the color or to straighten,
    12  curl, or permanently alter the structure of the hair with  chemicals  or
    13  heat.   Techniques which result in tension on hair roots such as certain
    14  types of braiding, weaving, wrapping, locking and extending of the  hair
    15  may  only  be  performed  by  a natural hair [styling] care and braiding
    16  licensee or cosmetology  licensee  who  has  successfully  completed  an
    17  approved course of study in such techniques.
    18    §  3.  Section  400 of the general business law is amended by adding 9
    19  new subdivisions 5-a, 5-b, 5-c, 5-d, 5-e, 5-f, 5-g, 5-h, and 5-i to read
    20  as follows:
    21    5-a. "Natural hair" means all virgin hair types and textures that have
    22  not been exposed to any chemicals or heat styling  that  may  alter  the
    23  natural curl, coil or wave patterns of the hair.
    24    5-b.  "Natural  hair  care"  means  the  maintenance  and overall care
    25  performed by a natural hair care specialist dedicated to the health  and
    26  wellness  of  one's hair and scalp through proper tension techniques and
    27  without the use of chemicals or the alteration of the structure  of  the
    28  hair.
    29    5-c.  "Textured  hair"  means  textured  hair  types, including curly,
    30  coily, tight coily, afro coily, straight and wavey, including,  but  not
    31  limited  to,  various  curly, coily, wavy or wiry patterns, combinations
    32  and configurations, hair strands, thickness, and volumes of hair.
    33    5-d. "Textured hair styling" means the  styling  practices  and  tech-
    34  niques  for  haircare  of  all  hair  types  and textures performed by a
    35  textured hairstylist, including arranging,  dressing,  curly  and  coily
    36  styling,  comb  coiling,  finger  coiling, double strand twisting, flat-
    37  twisting or the use of curlers, rods, rollers/hair  pins  including  the
    38  preparation  of the foundation of the hair through wellness practices in
    39  order to preserve the health of  the  hair  with  clean,  botanical  and
    40  sustainable  beauty  products  which include clarifying and moisturizing
    41  shampoos, leave-in conditioners, steam hydration conditioning, hydration
    42  and protein strengthening treatments, and herbal/botanical  rinses;  and
    43  topical agents such as gels and gelee, hairspray, foams, mousse, molding
    44  muds,  moisturizers,  oils,  pomades, in conjunction with performing the
    45  practice of natural hair care and braiding. Such styling  shall  include
    46  the  use  of blow dryers and diffusers for the purpose of drying natural
    47  textured styles with indirect heat.
    48    5-e. "Braid" means the interlacing of three or more strands  of  hair,
    49  and  can  be  worn  in  a variety of styles, including cornrows, twists,
    50  locs, and box braids with or without added hair fibers.
    51    5-f. "Braiding" means the styling practices and  techniques  performed
    52  by  a  braid  specialist  who  styles  all hair types and textures which
    53  includes  the  use   of   natural   human   hair   or   synthetic   hair
    54  extension/fibers, natural human hair and synthetic blended fibers, deco-
    55  rative  beads, and other hair adornments. Minor hair shaping or trimming
    56  of naturally textured hair or hair extensions  necessary  for  finishing

        A. 8624                             3

     1  braid  hair  extensions  may  occur.   Braiding types and techniques can
     2  include, but are not limited to, individual box braids, knotless/feed-in
     3  braids, cornrows, stitch cornrows,  casamas,  plaits,  Bantu  Knots,  or
     4  Senegalese Twists.
     5    5-g.  "African  braiding"  refers  to the cultural reference of tradi-
     6  tional techniques of naturally braiding and cornrowing hair, originating
     7  from African communities within the African diaspora.
     8    5-h. "Locking" or "loc extensions" includes, but is  not  limited  to,
     9  wrapping  the  hair,  palm  rolling  techniques, grooming, interlocking,
    10  crochet locking, micro/locking including the preparation of the  founda-
    11  tion  of  the  hair  through wellness practices in order to preserve the
    12  health of the hair with clean, botanical and sustainable beauty products
    13  which include clarifying and moisturizing shampoos, leave-in  condition-
    14  ers, and steam hydration conditioning treatments, hydration and moistur-
    15  izing techniques, protein strengthening treatments, and herbal/botanical
    16  rinses;  and  topical  agents  such as gels and gelee, hairspray, foams,
    17  mousse, molding muds, moisturizers, oils, pomades, in  conjunction  with
    18  performing the practice of natural hair care and braiding.
    19    5-i.  "Weaving" and "extensions" means extending natural textured hair
    20  with the addition of braids, locs or additional textured hair with human
    21  hair, synthetic fibers, and hair extension;  the  making  of  wigs  from
    22  human hair, synthetic fibers, and hair extensions including the prepara-
    23  tion  of  the foundation of the hair through wellness practices in order
    24  to preserve the health of the hair with clean, botanical and sustainable
    25  beauty products which  include  clarifying  and  moisturizing  shampoos,
    26  leave-in  conditioners,  and  steam  hydration  conditioning treatments,
    27  hydration and moisturizing techniques, protein strengthening treatments,
    28  and herbal/botanical rinses; and topical agents such as gels and  gelee,
    29  hairspray,  foams, mousse, molding muds, moisturizers, oils, pomades, in
    30  conjunction with performing the practice of natural hair care and braid-
    31  ing.
    32    § 4. Subdivisions 1 and 3 of section 401 of the general business  law,
    33  subdivision  1 as amended by chapter 80 of the laws of 2015 and subdivi-
    34  sion 3 as amended by chapter 341 of the laws of 1998,  are  amended  and
    35  subdivision 4 is added to read as follows:
    36    1.  No  person shall engage in the practice of nail specialty, waxing,
    37  natural hair [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or  cosmetology,  as
    38  defined in section four hundred of this article, without having received
    39  a  license  to  engage in such practice in the manner prescribed in this
    40  article. No person shall act as a trainee or perform any service as such
    41  unless he or she has obtained a certificate of registration pursuant  to
    42  this article.
    43    3.  A  person  licensed by any other state or country to practice nail
    44  specialty, waxing, natural hair [styling] care and  braiding,  esthetics
    45  or  cosmetology shall be allowed to practice in New York state for three
    46  months or less within any calendar year for the purpose of giving to, or
    47  receiving from, persons who are licensed under this article training  in
    48  current  styles, techniques or materials, provided however, that no such
    49  unlicensed person may provide services to the public  for  any  fee,  or
    50  other compensation, whether direct or indirect.
    51    4.  Notwithstanding  the  provisions  of  this  section, an unlicensed
    52  person practicing natural hair care and braiding in any other  state  or
    53  country for at least two years shall be permitted to apply for a license
    54  in  New  York  state.  The secretary of state shall promulgate rules and
    55  regulations with input from the  advisory  committee  established  under
    56  section four hundred three of this article to ensure such licensing.

        A. 8624                             4

     1    §  5.  Section  404 of the general business law, as amended by chapter
     2  664 of the laws of 2023, is amended to read as follows:
     3    § 404. Rules and regulations. The secretary shall promulgate rules and
     4  regulations  which  establish  standards  for  practice and operation by
     5  licensees and trainees under this article in order to ensure the health,
     6  safety and welfare of the public including licensees and  trainees  when
     7  they  are working within such establishments. Such rules and regulations
     8  shall include, but not be limited to, the sanitary conditions and proce-
     9  dures required to be maintained, a minimum standard of  training  appro-
    10  priate to the duties of nail specialists, trainees, waxers, natural hair
    11  [stylists]  care  and braiding specialists, estheticians, and cosmetolo-
    12  gists and the  provision  of  service  by  nail  specialists,  trainees,
    13  waxers,  natural hair [stylists] care and braiding specialists, estheti-
    14  cians or cosmetologists at remote locations other  than  the  licensee's
    15  home  provided  that  such  practitioner holds an appearance enhancement
    16  business license to operate at a fixed location or is  employed  by  the
    17  holder  of  an  appearance  enhancement  business license.   Regulations
    18  setting forth the educational  requirements  for  nail  specialists  and
    19  trainees  shall include education in the area of causes of infection and
    20  bacteriology. Regulations setting forth the educational requirements for
    21  cosmetologists [or], natural hair [stylists] care and braiding  special-
    22  ists and natural hair care and braiding apprentices shall include educa-
    23  tion  regarding  the  provision of services to individuals with all hair
    24  types and textures, including, but not limited to, various curl, coil or
    25  wave patterns, hair strand thicknesses, and  volumes  of  hair.    Addi-
    26  tionally,  such  regulations for natural hair care and braiding special-
    27  ists and natural hair care and braiding apprentices shall include educa-
    28  tion in the area of natural hair care and  braid  techniques,  cause  of
    29  infection  and  bacteriology, alopecia and scalp disorders and diseases,
    30  salon health and safety protocols and the science of sanitary practices.
    31  In promulgating such rules and regulations the secretary  shall  consult
    32  with  the state education department, the advisory committee established
    33  pursuant to this article, any other state agencies and private  industry
    34  representatives  from beauty schools and academies as may be appropriate
    35  in determining minimum training requirements.
    36    § 6. Section 406 of the general business law, as added by chapter  509
    37  of  the  laws of 1992, subdivisions 1, 2 and 4 as amended by chapter 341
    38  of the laws of 1998, paragraph e of subdivision 1 as amended by  chapter
    39  376  of the laws of 2015, paragraph f of subdivision 1 as added by chap-
    40  ter 80 of the laws of 2015, paragraph c of subdivision 2 as  amended  by
    41  section  3  of part D of chapter 328 of the laws of 2014 and paragraph a
    42  of subdivision 3 as amended by chapter 324  of  the  laws  of  1998,  is
    43  amended to read as follows:
    44    §   406.   License  application;  procedure;  requirements;  temporary
    45  license.  1. a. Any person intending to practice nail specialty, waxing,
    46  natural hair [styling] care and braiding, esthetics  or  cosmetology  as
    47  defined  in this article, or to own or operate an appearance enhancement
    48  business, shall first make application to the secretary  for  a  license
    49  therefor.
    50    b.  Such  application  shall be in a form and manner prescribed by the
    51  secretary and shall contain such  information  as,  in  the  secretary's
    52  judgment,  is  reasonable  and necessary to determine the qualifications
    53  and fitness for licensing of the applicant.
    54    c. The application shall be subscribed by the applicant  and  affirmed
    55  under penalty of perjury.

        A. 8624                             5

     1    d.  Each  application  shall  be accompanied by the appropriate fee as
     2  prescribed by this article.
     3    e.  Each  application  shall be accompanied by a certificate of a duly
     4  licensed physician, or nurse practitioner to the  extent  authorized  by
     5  law  and  consistent with subdivision three of section six thousand nine
     6  hundred two of the education law on a form prescribed by the  secretary,
     7  showing  freedom  from  any  infectious  or  communicable  disease which
     8  certificate shall have been issued within thirty days prior to the  date
     9  of the filing of the application.
    10    f.  Notwithstanding  the  educational  requirements of this section, a
    11  trainee may obtain a license to practice nail specialty if such  trainee
    12  provides  satisfactory  evidence  to the secretary that such trainee has
    13  been actively engaged in a traineeship for a period of one year and  has
    14  completed  a  course of study set forth by the secretary. Such course of
    15  study may be delivered by electronic means.
    16    2. a. Any person seventeen years of age or  older  may  apply  to  the
    17  secretary for a license to practice nail specialty, waxing, natural hair
    18  [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology.
    19    b.  Each  such  application  shall also be accompanied by satisfactory
    20  evidence of having taken and passed the appropriate examination or exam-
    21  inations offered by the secretary  pursuant  to  this  article  for  the
    22  license  sought and evidence of the successful completion of an approved
    23  course of study in nail specialty, waxing, natural hair  [styling]  care
    24  and  braiding, esthetics or cosmetology in a school duly licensed pursu-
    25  ant to the education law.
    26    c. Any applicant for a license to  practice  nail  specialty,  waxing,
    27  natural  hair  [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology may
    28  submit satisfactory evidence of  licensure  to  practice  an  equivalent
    29  occupation issued by any other state, territory, protectorate or depend-
    30  ency  of  the United States or any other country in lieu of the evidence
    31  of schooling and examination required by this subdivision, provided that
    32  such license was granted in compliance with standards which were, in the
    33  judgment of the secretary, not  lower  than  those  of  this  state  and
    34  provided  that such state, territory, protectorate, dependency, or coun-
    35  try extends similar reciprocity to the licensees of this state,  or  the
    36  applicant  practiced  an equivalent occupation in such state, territory,
    37  protectorate, dependency or country for a minimum of five years, or  the
    38  applicant  is  a member of the household of a member of the armed forces
    39  of the United States, national guard or reserves and  was  a  member  of
    40  such household before such member relocated to the state.
    41    d.  Notwithstanding  the  educational requirements of this section and
    42  the testing requirements of this section, an applicant who otherwise has
    43  met the licensing requirements of this article for  a  nail  specialist,
    44  waxer,  natural hair [stylist] care and braiding specialist, esthetician
    45  or cosmetologist who shall provide satisfactory evidence he or  she  has
    46  been  actively and continuously engaged in the practice of nail special-
    47  ty, waxing, natural hair  [styling]  care  and  braiding,  esthetics  or
    48  cosmetology  for  at  least one year prior to the effective date of this
    49  article, may be issued a license for  nail  specialty,  waxing,  natural
    50  hair  [styling]  care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology pursuant to
    51  this article. Notwithstanding the educational and  testing  requirements
    52  of  this  section, a person licensed to practice barbering under article
    53  twenty-eight of  this  chapter  who  otherwise  has  met  the  licensing
    54  requirements of this article may apply for a temporary natural hair care
    55  and  braiding  license  in order to study and take the natural hair care
    56  and braiding written examination.   Upon passing, such  licensed  barber

        A. 8624                             6

     1  shall  be  issued  a license to practice natural [hairstyling] hair care
     2  and braiding.  Other than applicants licensed under article twenty-eight
     3  of this chapter, those persons who apply after  a  twelve  month  period
     4  from  the  effective  date  of  this article will be required to provide
     5  evidence of training and to take  the  examination  or  examinations  as
     6  required for other licenses pursuant to this article.
     7    e.  Upon  acceptance  by  the secretary of a proper application for an
     8  operator's license to  practice  nail  [speciality]  specialty,  waxing,
     9  natural  hair [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology, the
    10  secretary may issue a temporary operator's license  which  shall  expire
    11  six months from issuance. Upon good cause shown, the secretary may renew
    12  a  temporary operator's license for one additional six-month period upon
    13  filing the appropriate application and fee.
    14    3. Appearance enhancement business license. a.  Any  person,  eighteen
    15  years  of age or older, or any firm, limited liability company, partner-
    16  ship or corporation having at least one member eighteen years of age  or
    17  older  may apply to the secretary for an appearance enhancement business
    18  license.
    19    b. Each  such  application  for  an  appearance  enhancement  business
    20  license  shall  be accompanied by evidence of a bond or liability insur-
    21  ance.
    22    4. a. Notwithstanding any provision contained in this article  to  the
    23  contrary, if any person, eligible for any license pursuant to this arti-
    24  cle,  should  be called to active military service at or during the time
    25  application for any license is required to  be  filed  and  license  fee
    26  paid,  pursuant  to  the  provisions  of this article, the period within
    27  which said application may be filed and license  fee  may  be  paid,  is
    28  extended  on  behalf of such person, until three months after the termi-
    29  nation of said military service.
    30    b. In the case of persons who are called to  active  military  service
    31  and  will  be discharged from active military service, the period of two
    32  years specified in paragraph d of subdivision two of this  section  need
    33  not  be  continuous.  The  length of time such person was engaged in the
    34  practice of nail specialty, waxing,  natural  hair  [styling]  care  and
    35  braiding,  esthetics  or  cosmetology  before  entering  active military
    36  service may be added to any period of time during which such person  was
    37  or  is  engaged  in the practice of nail specialty, waxing, natural hair
    38  [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology after  the  termi-
    39  nation of active military service.
    40    §  7.  Subdivision  1  of  section 407 of the general business law, as
    41  amended by chapter 255 of the laws  of  1999,  is  amended  to  read  as
    42  follows:
    43    1. The examinations for the license to practice natural hair [styling]
    44  care  and  braiding,  esthetics, nail specialty and cosmetology shall be
    45  practical and written. The examinations  for  the  license  to  practice
    46  waxing  shall  be  limited  to a written examination only. The secretary
    47  shall determine reasonable standards of performance for each license and
    48  shall evaluate the prospective applicants and applicants on the basis of
    49  such standards. The objectives of the examinations shall  be  to  insure
    50  that  prospective applicants and applicants have sufficient basic skills
    51  to safeguard the health and safety of the  public  and  to  insure  that
    52  prospective  applicants  and applicants have attained adequate levels of
    53  skill to competently engage in the activities authorized by the license.
    54    § 8. The general business law is amended by adding a new section 408-c
    55  to read as follows:

        A. 8624                             7

     1    § 408-c. Natural hair care and braiding apprentice.  1. A natural hair
     2  care and braid apprentice shall be a person pursuing  in  good  faith  a
     3  course  of study in the practice of natural hair care and braiding under
     4  the tutelage, supervision, and direction of  a  natural  hair  care  and
     5  braiding  licensee  and  who  assists such licensee in such practice.  A
     6  business appearance enhancement licensed salon shall register  with  the
     7  department  of  licensing to participate in such apprentice program. The
     8  secretary of state shall  promulgate  rules  and  regulations  regarding
     9  salons  and salon supervisors, for tutelage, guidelines and requirements
    10  of natural hair care and  braid  instructors  and  textured  hairstylist
    11  instructors. The advisory committee established under this article shall
    12  advise on such rules and regulations.
    13    2.  a.  A  certificate of registration as an apprentice shall be for a
    14  period of two years and shall be renewable for an additional two  years,
    15  if necessary.
    16    b. Each certificate of registration issued as provided in this section
    17  shall be posted in some conspicuous place where such apprentice is actu-
    18  ally  engaged  in  the  practice of natural hair care and braiding as an
    19  apprentice.
    20    3. A mandatory twenty-five hour online or in-person  course  of  study
    21  shall  be  required  from  an accredited school approved by the New York
    22  state department of licensing in the areas of health and safety, science
    23  and sanitary practices, and alopecia and scalp disorders.
    24    4. Upon completion of the requirements of this section, the apprentice
    25  shall be eligible to apply for a natural hair care and braiding license.
    26    § 9. Subdivision 1 of section 409 of  the  general  business  law,  as
    27  amended  by  section  2  of part Y of chapter 60 of the laws of 2011, is
    28  amended to read as follows:
    29    1. The non-refundable fee for an application for a license  to  engage
    30  in  the  practice of nail specialty, waxing, natural hair [styling] care
    31  and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology, shall be forty dollars initially
    32  and for each renewal thereof the fee shall be forty dollars; the fee for
    33  a temporary license and each renewal shall be ten dollars.
    34    § 10. Paragraph a of subdivision 2 of section 410 of the general busi-
    35  ness law, as amended by chapter 80 of the laws of 2015,  is  amended  to
    36  read as follows:
    37    a.  The  secretary  may  issue an order directing the cessation of any
    38  activity related to nail specialty, waxing, natural hair [styling]  care
    39  and  braiding,  esthetics or cosmetology for which a license is required
    40  by this article upon a determination that a person, partnership, limited
    41  liability company or business corporation, engaging in the  business  or
    42  occupation  of,  or  holding himself, herself or itself out as or acted,
    43  temporarily or otherwise, as a nail specialist, natural  hair  [stylist]
    44  care  and  braiding specialist, esthetician or cosmetologist within this
    45  state without a valid license being  in  effect.  The  secretary  shall,
    46  before making such determination and order, afford such person, partner-
    47  ship,  limited  liability company or business corporation an opportunity
    48  to be heard in person or by counsel in reference thereto in an adjudica-
    49  tory proceeding held pursuant to section four  hundred  eleven  of  this
    50  article as applicable.
    51    §  11.  Subdivision  1  of section 412 of the general business law, as
    52  amended by chapter 80 of the  laws  of  2015,  is  amended  to  read  as
    53  follows:
    54    1. The practice of nail specialty, waxing, natural hair [styling] care
    55  and  braiding, esthetics or cosmetology without a license or while under
    56  suspension or revocation, or in violation  of  an  order  directing  the

        A. 8624                             8

     1  cessation  of  unlicensed  activity  issued by the secretary pursuant to
     2  section four hundred ten or four hundred eleven of this  article,  is  a
     3  violation  and  is  subject  to  a  civil  penalty of up to five hundred
     4  dollars  for the first violation; one thousand dollars for a second such
     5  violation; and two thousand five hundred dollars for a  third  violation
     6  and any subsequent violation.
     7    §  12.  This  act shall take effect on the sixtieth day after it shall
     8  have become a law; provided, however, the amendments to section  404  of
     9  the  general  business  law  made by section five of this act shall take
    10  effect on the same date and in the same manner as section 3  of  chapter
    11  664 of the laws of 2023, takes effect.
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