STATE OF NEW YORK
________________________________________________________________________
8624
IN ASSEMBLY
January 12, 2024
___________
Introduced by M. of A. PRETLOW -- read once and referred to the Commit-
tee on Economic Development
AN ACT to amend the general business law, in relation to the practice of
natural hair care and braiding
The People of the State of New York, represented in Senate and Assem-
bly, do enact as follows:
1 Section 1. The article heading of article 27 of the general business
2 law, as added by chapter 509 of the laws of 1992, is amended to read as
3 follows:
4 LICENSING OF NAIL SPECIALTY, NATURAL
5 HAIR [STYLING] CARE AND BRAIDING,
6 ESTHETICS AND COSMETOLOGY
7 § 2. Subdivisions 3 and 5 of section 400 of the general business law,
8 subdivision 3 as added by chapter 509 of the laws of 1992 and subdivi-
9 sion 5 as amended by chapter 343 of the laws of 1998, are amended to
10 read as follows:
11 3. "Licensee" means a person licensed pursuant to this article to
12 engage in the practice of natural hair [styling] care and braiding,
13 esthetics, nail specialty or cosmetology, or to operate an appearance
14 enhancement business in which such practice, as herein defined, is
15 provided to the public.
16 5. a. The practice of "natural hair [styling] care and braiding" means
17 providing for a fee, or any consideration or exchange, whether direct or
18 indirect, any of the following services to the hair of a human being:
19 with all ranges of hair types and textures, consulting and scalp analy-
20 sis, hair texture assessment, shampooing, conditioning, providing clean,
21 botanical and sustainable beauty products which include clarifying and
22 moisturizing shampoos, leave-in conditioners and steam hydration condi-
23 tioning, scalp treatments, wellness practices, hydration and protein
24 strengthening treatments, clays, masks, essential oils, and
25 herbal/botanical rinses, arranging, dressing, twisting, coiling, wrap-
26 ping, weaving, extending, locking, palm rolling or braiding the hair or
27 beard by either hand or mechanical [appliances] equipment, including
28 using clips, combs, crochet needles, latch-hook tools, interlocking
EXPLANATION--Matter in italics (underscored) is new; matter in brackets
[ ] is old law to be omitted.
LBD13808-03-4
A. 8624 2
1 tools, sewing blunt-tipped and curve needles, beading pliers, curlers,
2 rods, rollers, hairpins, scissors, thread and yarn for styling natural
3 textured hair or braids on all ranges of hair types and textures.
4 b. Such practice shall not include cutting, shaving or trimming
5 natural hair except that such activities are permissible to the extent
6 that such activities are incidental to the practice of minor hair shap-
7 ing or trimming of naturally textured hair after the installation and
8 finishing of braid hair extensions, natural hair styling, and natural
9 hair braiding.
10 c. Such practice shall not include the application of dyes, reactive
11 chemicals, or other preparations to alter the color or to straighten,
12 curl, or permanently alter the structure of the hair with chemicals or
13 heat. Techniques which result in tension on hair roots such as certain
14 types of braiding, weaving, wrapping, locking and extending of the hair
15 may only be performed by a natural hair [styling] care and braiding
16 licensee or cosmetology licensee who has successfully completed an
17 approved course of study in such techniques.
18 § 3. Section 400 of the general business law is amended by adding 9
19 new subdivisions 5-a, 5-b, 5-c, 5-d, 5-e, 5-f, 5-g, 5-h, and 5-i to read
20 as follows:
21 5-a. "Natural hair" means all virgin hair types and textures that have
22 not been exposed to any chemicals or heat styling that may alter the
23 natural curl, coil or wave patterns of the hair.
24 5-b. "Natural hair care" means the maintenance and overall care
25 performed by a natural hair care specialist dedicated to the health and
26 wellness of one's hair and scalp through proper tension techniques and
27 without the use of chemicals or the alteration of the structure of the
28 hair.
29 5-c. "Textured hair" means textured hair types, including curly,
30 coily, tight coily, afro coily, straight and wavey, including, but not
31 limited to, various curly, coily, wavy or wiry patterns, combinations
32 and configurations, hair strands, thickness, and volumes of hair.
33 5-d. "Textured hair styling" means the styling practices and tech-
34 niques for haircare of all hair types and textures performed by a
35 textured hairstylist, including arranging, dressing, curly and coily
36 styling, comb coiling, finger coiling, double strand twisting, flat-
37 twisting or the use of curlers, rods, rollers/hair pins including the
38 preparation of the foundation of the hair through wellness practices in
39 order to preserve the health of the hair with clean, botanical and
40 sustainable beauty products which include clarifying and moisturizing
41 shampoos, leave-in conditioners, steam hydration conditioning, hydration
42 and protein strengthening treatments, and herbal/botanical rinses; and
43 topical agents such as gels and gelee, hairspray, foams, mousse, molding
44 muds, moisturizers, oils, pomades, in conjunction with performing the
45 practice of natural hair care and braiding. Such styling shall include
46 the use of blow dryers and diffusers for the purpose of drying natural
47 textured styles with indirect heat.
48 5-e. "Braid" means the interlacing of three or more strands of hair,
49 and can be worn in a variety of styles, including cornrows, twists,
50 locs, and box braids with or without added hair fibers.
51 5-f. "Braiding" means the styling practices and techniques performed
52 by a braid specialist who styles all hair types and textures which
53 includes the use of natural human hair or synthetic hair
54 extension/fibers, natural human hair and synthetic blended fibers, deco-
55 rative beads, and other hair adornments. Minor hair shaping or trimming
56 of naturally textured hair or hair extensions necessary for finishing
A. 8624 3
1 braid hair extensions may occur. Braiding types and techniques can
2 include, but are not limited to, individual box braids, knotless/feed-in
3 braids, cornrows, stitch cornrows, casamas, plaits, Bantu Knots, or
4 Senegalese Twists.
5 5-g. "African braiding" refers to the cultural reference of tradi-
6 tional techniques of naturally braiding and cornrowing hair, originating
7 from African communities within the African diaspora.
8 5-h. "Locking" or "loc extensions" includes, but is not limited to,
9 wrapping the hair, palm rolling techniques, grooming, interlocking,
10 crochet locking, micro/locking including the preparation of the founda-
11 tion of the hair through wellness practices in order to preserve the
12 health of the hair with clean, botanical and sustainable beauty products
13 which include clarifying and moisturizing shampoos, leave-in condition-
14 ers, and steam hydration conditioning treatments, hydration and moistur-
15 izing techniques, protein strengthening treatments, and herbal/botanical
16 rinses; and topical agents such as gels and gelee, hairspray, foams,
17 mousse, molding muds, moisturizers, oils, pomades, in conjunction with
18 performing the practice of natural hair care and braiding.
19 5-i. "Weaving" and "extensions" means extending natural textured hair
20 with the addition of braids, locs or additional textured hair with human
21 hair, synthetic fibers, and hair extension; the making of wigs from
22 human hair, synthetic fibers, and hair extensions including the prepara-
23 tion of the foundation of the hair through wellness practices in order
24 to preserve the health of the hair with clean, botanical and sustainable
25 beauty products which include clarifying and moisturizing shampoos,
26 leave-in conditioners, and steam hydration conditioning treatments,
27 hydration and moisturizing techniques, protein strengthening treatments,
28 and herbal/botanical rinses; and topical agents such as gels and gelee,
29 hairspray, foams, mousse, molding muds, moisturizers, oils, pomades, in
30 conjunction with performing the practice of natural hair care and braid-
31 ing.
32 § 4. Subdivisions 1 and 3 of section 401 of the general business law,
33 subdivision 1 as amended by chapter 80 of the laws of 2015 and subdivi-
34 sion 3 as amended by chapter 341 of the laws of 1998, are amended and
35 subdivision 4 is added to read as follows:
36 1. No person shall engage in the practice of nail specialty, waxing,
37 natural hair [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology, as
38 defined in section four hundred of this article, without having received
39 a license to engage in such practice in the manner prescribed in this
40 article. No person shall act as a trainee or perform any service as such
41 unless he or she has obtained a certificate of registration pursuant to
42 this article.
43 3. A person licensed by any other state or country to practice nail
44 specialty, waxing, natural hair [styling] care and braiding, esthetics
45 or cosmetology shall be allowed to practice in New York state for three
46 months or less within any calendar year for the purpose of giving to, or
47 receiving from, persons who are licensed under this article training in
48 current styles, techniques or materials, provided however, that no such
49 unlicensed person may provide services to the public for any fee, or
50 other compensation, whether direct or indirect.
51 4. Notwithstanding the provisions of this section, an unlicensed
52 person practicing natural hair care and braiding in any other state or
53 country for at least two years shall be permitted to apply for a license
54 in New York state. The secretary of state shall promulgate rules and
55 regulations with input from the advisory committee established under
56 section four hundred three of this article to ensure such licensing.
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1 § 5. Section 404 of the general business law, as amended by chapter
2 664 of the laws of 2023, is amended to read as follows:
3 § 404. Rules and regulations. The secretary shall promulgate rules and
4 regulations which establish standards for practice and operation by
5 licensees and trainees under this article in order to ensure the health,
6 safety and welfare of the public including licensees and trainees when
7 they are working within such establishments. Such rules and regulations
8 shall include, but not be limited to, the sanitary conditions and proce-
9 dures required to be maintained, a minimum standard of training appro-
10 priate to the duties of nail specialists, trainees, waxers, natural hair
11 [stylists] care and braiding specialists, estheticians, and cosmetolo-
12 gists and the provision of service by nail specialists, trainees,
13 waxers, natural hair [stylists] care and braiding specialists, estheti-
14 cians or cosmetologists at remote locations other than the licensee's
15 home provided that such practitioner holds an appearance enhancement
16 business license to operate at a fixed location or is employed by the
17 holder of an appearance enhancement business license. Regulations
18 setting forth the educational requirements for nail specialists and
19 trainees shall include education in the area of causes of infection and
20 bacteriology. Regulations setting forth the educational requirements for
21 cosmetologists [or], natural hair [stylists] care and braiding special-
22 ists and natural hair care and braiding apprentices shall include educa-
23 tion regarding the provision of services to individuals with all hair
24 types and textures, including, but not limited to, various curl, coil or
25 wave patterns, hair strand thicknesses, and volumes of hair. Addi-
26 tionally, such regulations for natural hair care and braiding special-
27 ists and natural hair care and braiding apprentices shall include educa-
28 tion in the area of natural hair care and braid techniques, cause of
29 infection and bacteriology, alopecia and scalp disorders and diseases,
30 salon health and safety protocols and the science of sanitary practices.
31 In promulgating such rules and regulations the secretary shall consult
32 with the state education department, the advisory committee established
33 pursuant to this article, any other state agencies and private industry
34 representatives from beauty schools and academies as may be appropriate
35 in determining minimum training requirements.
36 § 6. Section 406 of the general business law, as added by chapter 509
37 of the laws of 1992, subdivisions 1, 2 and 4 as amended by chapter 341
38 of the laws of 1998, paragraph e of subdivision 1 as amended by chapter
39 376 of the laws of 2015, paragraph f of subdivision 1 as added by chap-
40 ter 80 of the laws of 2015, paragraph c of subdivision 2 as amended by
41 section 3 of part D of chapter 328 of the laws of 2014 and paragraph a
42 of subdivision 3 as amended by chapter 324 of the laws of 1998, is
43 amended to read as follows:
44 § 406. License application; procedure; requirements; temporary
45 license. 1. a. Any person intending to practice nail specialty, waxing,
46 natural hair [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology as
47 defined in this article, or to own or operate an appearance enhancement
48 business, shall first make application to the secretary for a license
49 therefor.
50 b. Such application shall be in a form and manner prescribed by the
51 secretary and shall contain such information as, in the secretary's
52 judgment, is reasonable and necessary to determine the qualifications
53 and fitness for licensing of the applicant.
54 c. The application shall be subscribed by the applicant and affirmed
55 under penalty of perjury.
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1 d. Each application shall be accompanied by the appropriate fee as
2 prescribed by this article.
3 e. Each application shall be accompanied by a certificate of a duly
4 licensed physician, or nurse practitioner to the extent authorized by
5 law and consistent with subdivision three of section six thousand nine
6 hundred two of the education law on a form prescribed by the secretary,
7 showing freedom from any infectious or communicable disease which
8 certificate shall have been issued within thirty days prior to the date
9 of the filing of the application.
10 f. Notwithstanding the educational requirements of this section, a
11 trainee may obtain a license to practice nail specialty if such trainee
12 provides satisfactory evidence to the secretary that such trainee has
13 been actively engaged in a traineeship for a period of one year and has
14 completed a course of study set forth by the secretary. Such course of
15 study may be delivered by electronic means.
16 2. a. Any person seventeen years of age or older may apply to the
17 secretary for a license to practice nail specialty, waxing, natural hair
18 [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology.
19 b. Each such application shall also be accompanied by satisfactory
20 evidence of having taken and passed the appropriate examination or exam-
21 inations offered by the secretary pursuant to this article for the
22 license sought and evidence of the successful completion of an approved
23 course of study in nail specialty, waxing, natural hair [styling] care
24 and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology in a school duly licensed pursu-
25 ant to the education law.
26 c. Any applicant for a license to practice nail specialty, waxing,
27 natural hair [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology may
28 submit satisfactory evidence of licensure to practice an equivalent
29 occupation issued by any other state, territory, protectorate or depend-
30 ency of the United States or any other country in lieu of the evidence
31 of schooling and examination required by this subdivision, provided that
32 such license was granted in compliance with standards which were, in the
33 judgment of the secretary, not lower than those of this state and
34 provided that such state, territory, protectorate, dependency, or coun-
35 try extends similar reciprocity to the licensees of this state, or the
36 applicant practiced an equivalent occupation in such state, territory,
37 protectorate, dependency or country for a minimum of five years, or the
38 applicant is a member of the household of a member of the armed forces
39 of the United States, national guard or reserves and was a member of
40 such household before such member relocated to the state.
41 d. Notwithstanding the educational requirements of this section and
42 the testing requirements of this section, an applicant who otherwise has
43 met the licensing requirements of this article for a nail specialist,
44 waxer, natural hair [stylist] care and braiding specialist, esthetician
45 or cosmetologist who shall provide satisfactory evidence he or she has
46 been actively and continuously engaged in the practice of nail special-
47 ty, waxing, natural hair [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or
48 cosmetology for at least one year prior to the effective date of this
49 article, may be issued a license for nail specialty, waxing, natural
50 hair [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology pursuant to
51 this article. Notwithstanding the educational and testing requirements
52 of this section, a person licensed to practice barbering under article
53 twenty-eight of this chapter who otherwise has met the licensing
54 requirements of this article may apply for a temporary natural hair care
55 and braiding license in order to study and take the natural hair care
56 and braiding written examination. Upon passing, such licensed barber
A. 8624 6
1 shall be issued a license to practice natural [hairstyling] hair care
2 and braiding. Other than applicants licensed under article twenty-eight
3 of this chapter, those persons who apply after a twelve month period
4 from the effective date of this article will be required to provide
5 evidence of training and to take the examination or examinations as
6 required for other licenses pursuant to this article.
7 e. Upon acceptance by the secretary of a proper application for an
8 operator's license to practice nail [speciality] specialty, waxing,
9 natural hair [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology, the
10 secretary may issue a temporary operator's license which shall expire
11 six months from issuance. Upon good cause shown, the secretary may renew
12 a temporary operator's license for one additional six-month period upon
13 filing the appropriate application and fee.
14 3. Appearance enhancement business license. a. Any person, eighteen
15 years of age or older, or any firm, limited liability company, partner-
16 ship or corporation having at least one member eighteen years of age or
17 older may apply to the secretary for an appearance enhancement business
18 license.
19 b. Each such application for an appearance enhancement business
20 license shall be accompanied by evidence of a bond or liability insur-
21 ance.
22 4. a. Notwithstanding any provision contained in this article to the
23 contrary, if any person, eligible for any license pursuant to this arti-
24 cle, should be called to active military service at or during the time
25 application for any license is required to be filed and license fee
26 paid, pursuant to the provisions of this article, the period within
27 which said application may be filed and license fee may be paid, is
28 extended on behalf of such person, until three months after the termi-
29 nation of said military service.
30 b. In the case of persons who are called to active military service
31 and will be discharged from active military service, the period of two
32 years specified in paragraph d of subdivision two of this section need
33 not be continuous. The length of time such person was engaged in the
34 practice of nail specialty, waxing, natural hair [styling] care and
35 braiding, esthetics or cosmetology before entering active military
36 service may be added to any period of time during which such person was
37 or is engaged in the practice of nail specialty, waxing, natural hair
38 [styling] care and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology after the termi-
39 nation of active military service.
40 § 7. Subdivision 1 of section 407 of the general business law, as
41 amended by chapter 255 of the laws of 1999, is amended to read as
42 follows:
43 1. The examinations for the license to practice natural hair [styling]
44 care and braiding, esthetics, nail specialty and cosmetology shall be
45 practical and written. The examinations for the license to practice
46 waxing shall be limited to a written examination only. The secretary
47 shall determine reasonable standards of performance for each license and
48 shall evaluate the prospective applicants and applicants on the basis of
49 such standards. The objectives of the examinations shall be to insure
50 that prospective applicants and applicants have sufficient basic skills
51 to safeguard the health and safety of the public and to insure that
52 prospective applicants and applicants have attained adequate levels of
53 skill to competently engage in the activities authorized by the license.
54 § 8. The general business law is amended by adding a new section 408-c
55 to read as follows:
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1 § 408-c. Natural hair care and braiding apprentice. 1. A natural hair
2 care and braid apprentice shall be a person pursuing in good faith a
3 course of study in the practice of natural hair care and braiding under
4 the tutelage, supervision, and direction of a natural hair care and
5 braiding licensee and who assists such licensee in such practice. A
6 business appearance enhancement licensed salon shall register with the
7 department of licensing to participate in such apprentice program. The
8 secretary of state shall promulgate rules and regulations regarding
9 salons and salon supervisors, for tutelage, guidelines and requirements
10 of natural hair care and braid instructors and textured hairstylist
11 instructors. The advisory committee established under this article shall
12 advise on such rules and regulations.
13 2. a. A certificate of registration as an apprentice shall be for a
14 period of two years and shall be renewable for an additional two years,
15 if necessary.
16 b. Each certificate of registration issued as provided in this section
17 shall be posted in some conspicuous place where such apprentice is actu-
18 ally engaged in the practice of natural hair care and braiding as an
19 apprentice.
20 3. A mandatory twenty-five hour online or in-person course of study
21 shall be required from an accredited school approved by the New York
22 state department of licensing in the areas of health and safety, science
23 and sanitary practices, and alopecia and scalp disorders.
24 4. Upon completion of the requirements of this section, the apprentice
25 shall be eligible to apply for a natural hair care and braiding license.
26 § 9. Subdivision 1 of section 409 of the general business law, as
27 amended by section 2 of part Y of chapter 60 of the laws of 2011, is
28 amended to read as follows:
29 1. The non-refundable fee for an application for a license to engage
30 in the practice of nail specialty, waxing, natural hair [styling] care
31 and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology, shall be forty dollars initially
32 and for each renewal thereof the fee shall be forty dollars; the fee for
33 a temporary license and each renewal shall be ten dollars.
34 § 10. Paragraph a of subdivision 2 of section 410 of the general busi-
35 ness law, as amended by chapter 80 of the laws of 2015, is amended to
36 read as follows:
37 a. The secretary may issue an order directing the cessation of any
38 activity related to nail specialty, waxing, natural hair [styling] care
39 and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology for which a license is required
40 by this article upon a determination that a person, partnership, limited
41 liability company or business corporation, engaging in the business or
42 occupation of, or holding himself, herself or itself out as or acted,
43 temporarily or otherwise, as a nail specialist, natural hair [stylist]
44 care and braiding specialist, esthetician or cosmetologist within this
45 state without a valid license being in effect. The secretary shall,
46 before making such determination and order, afford such person, partner-
47 ship, limited liability company or business corporation an opportunity
48 to be heard in person or by counsel in reference thereto in an adjudica-
49 tory proceeding held pursuant to section four hundred eleven of this
50 article as applicable.
51 § 11. Subdivision 1 of section 412 of the general business law, as
52 amended by chapter 80 of the laws of 2015, is amended to read as
53 follows:
54 1. The practice of nail specialty, waxing, natural hair [styling] care
55 and braiding, esthetics or cosmetology without a license or while under
56 suspension or revocation, or in violation of an order directing the
A. 8624 8
1 cessation of unlicensed activity issued by the secretary pursuant to
2 section four hundred ten or four hundred eleven of this article, is a
3 violation and is subject to a civil penalty of up to five hundred
4 dollars for the first violation; one thousand dollars for a second such
5 violation; and two thousand five hundred dollars for a third violation
6 and any subsequent violation.
7 § 12. This act shall take effect on the sixtieth day after it shall
8 have become a law; provided, however, the amendments to section 404 of
9 the general business law made by section five of this act shall take
10 effect on the same date and in the same manner as section 3 of chapter
11 664 of the laws of 2023, takes effect.