Bill Text: NY S04746 | 2023-2024 | General Assembly | Introduced


Bill Title: Requires fashion sellers to be accountable to standardized environmental and social due diligence policies; establishes a fashion remediation fund for the purpose of implementing one or more environmental benefit projects or labor remediation projects that directly and verifiably benefit the workers and communities directly impacted, to the extent practicable, at the location the injury has occurred.

Spectrum: Partisan Bill (Democrat 25-0)

Status: (Introduced) 2024-01-03 - REFERRED TO CONSUMER PROTECTION [S04746 Detail]

Download: New_York-2023-S04746-Introduced.html



                STATE OF NEW YORK
        ________________________________________________________________________

                                          4746

                               2023-2024 Regular Sessions

                    IN SENATE

                                    February 14, 2023
                                       ___________

        Introduced  by  Sens.  HOYLMAN-SIGAL,  BRISPORT, JACKSON, KAVANAGH, LIU,
          MAY, RIVERA, SALAZAR -- read  twice  and  ordered  printed,  and  when
          printed to be committed to the Committee on Consumer Protection

        AN ACT to amend the general business law, in relation to requiring fash-
          ion  sellers  to be accountable to environmental and social standards;
          and to amend the state finance law,  in  relation  to  establishing  a
          fashion remediation fund

          The  People of the State of New York, represented in Senate and Assem-
        bly, do enact as follows:

     1    Section 1. Short title. This act shall be known and may  be  cited  as
     2  the "Fashion sustainability and social accountability act".
     3    §  2. The general business law is amended by adding a new section 399-
     4  mm to read as follows:
     5    § 399-mm. Fashion sustainability and social accountability  act.    1.
     6  Definitions. As used in this section, the following terms shall have the
     7  following meanings:
     8    (a) "Doing business in this state" shall mean actively engaging in any
     9  transaction for the purpose of financial or pecuniary gain or profit.
    10    (b)  "Gross receipts" shall mean the gross amounts realized, otherwise
    11  known as the sum of money and the fair market value of other property or
    12  services received, on the sale or exchange of property, the  performance
    13  of  services, or the use of property or capital, including rents, royal-
    14  ties, interest, and dividends, in a transaction that  produces  business
    15  income,  in  which  the income, gain, or loss is recognized, or would be
    16  recognized if the transaction were  in  the  United  States,  under  the
    17  Internal  Revenue  Code,  as  applicable  for  purposes of this section.
    18  Amounts realized on the sale  or  exchange  of  property  shall  not  be
    19  reduced  by  the cost of goods sold or the basis of property sold. Gross
    20  receipts, even if business  income,  shall  not  include  the  following
    21  items:

         EXPLANATION--Matter in italics (underscored) is new; matter in brackets
                              [ ] is old law to be omitted.
                                                                   LBD03469-02-3

        S. 4746                             2

     1    (i)  repayment,  maturity,  or  redemption of the principal of a loan,
     2  bond, mutual fund, certificate of deposit, or similar marketable instru-
     3  ment;
     4    (ii)  the  principal  amount  received under a repurchase agreement or
     5  other transaction properly characterized as a loan;
     6    (iii) proceeds from issuance of the taxpayer's own stock or from  sale
     7  of treasury stock;
     8    (iv) damages and other amounts received as the result of litigation;
     9    (v) property acquired by an agent on behalf of another;
    10    (vi) tax refunds and other tax benefit recoveries;
    11    (vii) pension reversions;
    12    (viii)  contributions  to  capital,  except for sales of securities by
    13  securities dealers;
    14    (ix) income from discharge of indebtedness;
    15    (x) amounts realized from exchanges of inventory that are  not  recog-
    16  nized under the Internal Revenue Code;
    17    (xi)  amounts  received from transactions in intangible assets held in
    18  connection with a treasury function of the taxpayer's  unitary  business
    19  and  the gross receipts and overall net gains from the maturity, redemp-
    20  tion, sale, exchange, or other disposition of those  intangible  assets;
    21  and
    22    (xii)  amounts received from hedging transactions involving intangible
    23  assets. A "hedging transaction"  means  a  transaction  related  to  the
    24  taxpayer's  trading  function involving futures and options transactions
    25  for the purpose of hedging price risk of  the  products  or  commodities
    26  consumed, produced, or sold by the taxpayer.
    27    (c) "Fashion seller" shall mean a business entity which sells articles
    28  of  wearing  apparel, footwear, or fashion bags that together exceed one
    29  hundred million dollars in annual gross receipts, but shall not  include
    30  the  sale  of used wearing apparel, footwear, or fashion bags, nor shall
    31  it include multi-brand retailers, except where  the  apparel,  footwear,
    32  and  fashion  bag  private labels of those companies together exceed one
    33  hundred million dollars in global revenue.
    34    (d) "Article of wearing apparel" shall mean any costume or article  of
    35  clothing worn or intended to be worn by individuals.
    36    (e)  "Footwear" shall mean any covering worn or intended to be worn on
    37  the foot.
    38    (f) "Fashion bag" shall mean  flexible  packaging  made  of  textiles,
    39  leather  or other animal products, woven material or other similar mate-
    40  rials intended for repeated use.
    41    (g) "Due diligence" shall mean  the  comprehensive  process  companies
    42  shall  carry out to identify, cease, prevent, mitigate, account for, and
    43  remediate actual and potential adverse impacts to human rights  and  the
    44  environment  in  their  own  operations  and  in  their supply chain, in
    45  compliance with, at a minimum, the standards outlined in the most recent
    46  Organisation for Economic Co-operation and  Development  Guidelines  for
    47  Multinational  Enterprises,  and the Organisation for Economic Co-opera-
    48  tion and Development  Due  Diligence  Guidance  for  Responsible  Supply
    49  Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector.
    50    (h)  "Due  diligence  report"  shall mean the document prepared by the
    51  company to communicate all relevant information  concerning  the  exist-
    52  ence,  implementation  and  outcomes of due diligence in order to comply
    53  with the requirements of this section, and to comply with any  rules  or
    54  regulations established pursuant to this section.
    55    (i)  "Risk-based  approach"  shall mean commensurate to the likelihood
    56  and severity of the harm.  The fashion seller shall prioritize the order

        S. 4746                             3

     1  in which it takes action based on the likelihood and severity  of  harm.
     2  Severity  of  impacts  shall  be  determined according to their scale or
     3  gravity, scope, and irremediable character.
     4    (j)  "Supply chain tiers" shall mean a four tier system defined as the
     5  following:
     6    (i) "Tier one" shall mean suppliers who  produce  finished  goods  for
     7  fashion  sellers,  including  suppliers' subcontractors, who provide the
     8  following services, including but not limited to sewing  and  embroider-
     9  ing;
    10    (ii)  "Tier  two"  shall mean suppliers to tier one, including subcon-
    11  tractors, who provide the following services or goods, including but not
    12  limited to knitting, weaving, washing, dyeing, finishing,  printing  for
    13  finished  goods,  and  components  and materials for finished goods when
    14  they are stand-alone operations and not integrated with tier one. Compo-
    15  nents shall mean materials used to build a product,  including  but  not
    16  limited to buttons, zippers, rubber soles, down, and fusibles;
    17    (iii) "Tier three" shall mean suppliers to tier two suppliers, includ-
    18  ing  subcontractors,  who  process raw materials, such as ginning, spin-
    19  ning, and suppliers of chemicals; and
    20    (iv) "Tier four" shall mean companies, including subcontractors,  that
    21  provide raw materials to tier three.
    22    (k) "Independently verified" shall mean audited by a verification body
    23  accredited  by  the department of state as described in subdivision five
    24  of this section.
    25    (l) "Living wage" shall mean the remuneration received for a  standard
    26  workweek by a worker in a particular place sufficient to afford a decent
    27  standard  of  living  for  such  worker  and their family. Elements of a
    28  decent standard of  living  include  food,  water,  housing,  education,
    29  health care, transportation, clothing, and other essential needs includ-
    30  ing  provision  for  unexpected  events. Living wage shall be determined
    31  exclusive of overtime wages and by net wages including in-kind and  cash
    32  benefits, and deducting taxes and deductions.
    33    (m)  "Open  data  principles" shall mean data that can be freely used,
    34  reused and redistributed by anyone. Such data shall be findable or easi-
    35  ly discoverable on a website or within a database, accessible or  avail-
    36  able in a machine readable, convenient, modifiable form and published as
    37  a  whole,  complete  dataset,  interoperable  or  able  to be mixed with
    38  different datasets, and reusable or provided under an open license  that
    39  permits  reuse  and redistribution, including the intermixing with other
    40  datasets.
    41    2. Due Diligence. (a) Every fashion seller shall effectively carry out
    42  human rights and environmental due diligence for the portions  of  their
    43  business related to wearing apparel, footwear or fashion bags, including
    44  wearing  apparel,  footwear or fashion bags produced as a private label,
    45  which shall include:
    46    (i) supply chain mapping:
    47    (1) companies taking a risk-based approach and implementing good faith
    48  efforts  to  map  suppliers  across  tier  one  through  tier  four   of
    49  production.   Tier one suppliers shall be mapped within twelve months of
    50  the effective date of this section,  and  shall  contain  a  minimum  of
    51  seventy-five percent of suppliers by volume. Tier two suppliers shall be
    52  mapped within two years of the effective date of this section, and shall
    53  contain  a  minimum of seventy-five percent of suppliers by volume. Tier
    54  three and tier four suppliers shall be mapped within three years of  the
    55  effective  date  of  this  section  and shall contain a minimum of fifty
    56  percent of suppliers by volume or dollar value.

        S. 4746                             4

     1    (2) supplier disclosure for all tiers shall include the name, address,
     2  parent company, product type and number of workers at each site by coun-
     3  try;
     4    (3)  for  tier one suppliers, fashion sellers shall report, at a mini-
     5  mum, the following information to the attorney general, which  shall  be
     6  independently verified no less than once every two years:
     7    (A)  the mean wages of workers, and how this compares with local mini-
     8  mum wage and living wages;
     9    (B) the percentage of unionized factories; and
    10    (C) hours worked weekly by month and the hours and frequency of  over-
    11  time by firm and country.
    12    (ii) in carrying out effective due diligence, fashion sellers shall be
    13  in compliance with the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Devel-
    14  opment Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises and the Organisation for
    15  Economic Co-operation and Development Due Diligence Guidance for Respon-
    16  sible  Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector, requiring fash-
    17  ion sellers to, at a minimum:
    18    (1) embed responsible business conduct into the company's policies and
    19  management systems;
    20    (2) identify areas of significant risks in the  contexts  of  its  own
    21  activities and business and supply chain relationships;
    22    (3)  identify,  prioritize,  and  assess the significant potential and
    23  actual adverse impacts of those risks;
    24    (4) cease, prevent or mitigate those risks. This  shall  include,  but
    25  not be limited to:
    26    (A) Incentivizing improved supplier performance on workers' rights and
    27  environmental  impact  by  embedding responsible purchasing practices in
    28  its supply chain relationships and contracts, including but not  limited
    29  to  contract  renewals, longer term contracts, price premiums, providing
    30  reasonable assistance to suppliers so  that  they  can  meet  applicable
    31  human  rights  and  environmental standards including but not limited to
    32  meeting the carbon emission reduction targets set out in  this  section,
    33  and  developing pricing models that account for the cost of wages, bene-
    34  fits, and investments in suitable work,  specifically  as  reflected  in
    35  freight  on  board  prices  together  with traditional pricing consider-
    36  ations, such as quantities being purchased, cost of materials, and skill
    37  requirements. Wages, benefits, and investments shall, at a  minimum,  be
    38  in  line  with  the  requirements set out in local labor laws, including
    39  minimum wage laws;
    40    (B) Utilizing responsible exit or disengagement strategies;
    41    (C) Consulting and engaging with  impacted  and  potentially  impacted
    42  stakeholders and rights holders and their representatives;
    43    (D) Establishing quantitative baseline and reduction targets on green-
    44  house  gas  emissions.  Greenhouse  gas  emissions  inventory  shall  be
    45  reported  annually,  include  absolute  figures  and  conform  with  the
    46  accounting  and reporting requirements of the most recent Greenhouse Gas
    47  Protocol Corporate Accounting and Reporting Standard,  Scope  Two  Guid-
    48  ance,  and  the most recent Corporate Value Chain Scope Three accounting
    49  and reporting standard promulgated by the World Resources Institute  and
    50  the  World  Business Council for Sustainable Development. Greenhouse gas
    51  emissions inventory reported in the due diligence  report  described  in
    52  subdivision  three  of  this  section shall be independently verified no
    53  less than once every two years. Within four years of the effective  date
    54  of this section, primary data shall be used to capture tier two and tier
    55  three inventory of the most significant suppliers contributing to green-
    56  house gas emissions.  Significant suppliers shall mean suppliers repres-

        S. 4746                             5

     1  enting  seventy-five  percent  of fabric by volume in tier two and fifty
     2  percent of fabric by volume  in  tier  three.  Greenhouse  gas  emission
     3  reduction  targets must be near-term and long-term, covering scopes one,
     4  two  and  three  emissions,  and align with, at a minimum, Science Based
     5  Targets initiative's most recent target validation criteria  as  promul-
     6  gated  by  World Resources Institute, CDP, United Nations Global Compact
     7  and the World Wildlife Fund. For fashion  sellers  with  global  revenue
     8  over one billion dollars, the Absolute Contraction Approach must be used
     9  to  calculate  scope three emissions. Fashion sellers shall meet targets
    10  and report their compliance on an annual basis in  their  due  diligence
    11  report,  as  described in subdivision three of this section. If found to
    12  be out of compliance, fashion sellers  shall  have  eighteen  months  to
    13  remedy  their emissions and return to the necessary reduction pathway to
    14  deliver on their targets. In non-target years, non-compliance shall mean
    15  an increase in absolute emissions in three consecutive years, for compa-
    16  nies over a billion dollars in revenue. In target years,  non-compliance
    17  shall mean not reaching the target.
    18    (E)  In compliance with, at a minimum, the Zero Discharge of Hazardous
    19  Chemicals Program's most recent wastewater guidelines,  fashion  sellers
    20  shall  be  required,  for all significant tier two dyeing, finishing and
    21  garment washing suppliers, to sample and report on  wastewater  chemical
    22  concentrations  and  water usage, within two years of the effective date
    23  of this section. Such reports shall be independently  verified.  Fashion
    24  sellers  shall also provide corrective action plans for their wastewater
    25  treatment within thirty months of the effective date  of  this  section.
    26  After three years of the effective date of this section, fashion sellers
    27  shall  be  considered  out  of  compliance if their significant tier two
    28  dyeing, finishing and garment suppliers have not made adequate  progress
    29  in  remediation  of  wastewater  pollution concentrations.   Significant
    30  suppliers shall mean  suppliers  representing  seventy-five  percent  of
    31  fabric by volume;
    32    (5) track implementation and results;
    33    (6)  provide  for  or  co-operate  in  remediation  in the event of an
    34  adverse impact:
    35    (A) remedies shall seek to restore the  affected  person  or  persons,
    36  where  practicable,  to  the  situation  they would have been in had the
    37  adverse impact not occurred and shall enable remediation that is propor-
    38  tionate to the significance and scale of the adverse impact;
    39    (B) remedies shall include, depending on the nature and extent of  the
    40  adverse impact, apologies, restitution or rehabilitation including rein-
    41  statement  of  dismissed workers, recognition of the trade union for the
    42  purpose of collective bargaining,  financial  or  non-financial  compen-
    43  sation  including  establishing  compensation  funds for victims, or for
    44  future outreach and educational programs, punitive  sanctions  including
    45  the  dismissals of staff responsible for wrongdoing, and taking measures
    46  to prevent future adverse impacts; and
    47    (C) in relation to human rights impacts, fashion sellers shall consult
    48  and engage with impacted rights holders and their  representatives  when
    49  determining the remedy.
    50    (b)  The due diligence requirements pursuant to this subdivision shall
    51  not be conditional upon the company being effectively  involved  in  the
    52  subsidiary's  day-to-day operations or exercising a sufficient degree of
    53  control on companies within its supply chain.
    54    3. Reporting. Every fashion seller shall develop  and  submit  to  the
    55  office  of  the  attorney  general  annually,  beginning within eighteen
    56  months of the effective date of this section, a  due  diligence  report.

        S. 4746                             6

     1  Such  report,  excluding  the  information  required  in clause three of
     2  subparagraph (i) of paragraph (a) of subdivision two  of  this  section,
     3  shall also be made publicly available on the fashion seller's website in
     4  a machine readable and reusable format, published in line with open data
     5  principles  through a clear and easily discoverable link to the required
     6  information. In the event the fashion seller does not have  an  internet
     7  website,  the  company  shall provide a written disclosure to any person
     8  who has requested information within thirty days of receiving a request.
     9  Such report shall also include the fashion  seller's  annual  volume  of
    10  material produced, including breakdown by material type.
    11    4.  Regulations.  The  department of state shall, in consultation with
    12  the department of environmental conservation and  department  of  labor,
    13  promulgate   all  rules  and  regulations  necessary  to  implement  the
    14  provisions of this section within six months from the effective date  of
    15  this  section. The department of state, in consultation with the depart-
    16  ment of environmental conservation and department of labor,  shall  also
    17  develop  and  disseminate  educational  materials  to  fashion  sellers,
    18  including providing alerts on time sensitive  issues,  emerging  issues,
    19  and  high-risk  country  situations,  and  assisting  fashion sellers in
    20  improving the quality of their due diligence processes.
    21    5. Verification. (a) The department of state  shall,  in  consultation
    22  with  the  department  of  environmental  conservation and department of
    23  labor, develop a process for accrediting verification bodies  authorized
    24  to  provide  verification  services  for  the  purposes of this section,
    25  including which requirements the entity is authorized to verify.
    26    (b) Such process shall at a minimum consider:
    27    (i) the demonstrated qualifications of verification  staff,  including
    28  their  education,  experience,  and professional licenses.  Verification
    29  bodies must employ and retain at least five total full-time  staff  with
    30  expertise in the requirements they seek to verify under this section;
    31    (ii)  any judicial proceedings, enforcement actions, or administrative
    32  actions filed against the body within the previous five years; and
    33    (iii) the policies and mechanisms in place  to  prevent  conflicts  of
    34  interest  and  to  identify  and  resolve potential conflict of interest
    35  situations if they arise. The department  shall  require  applicants  to
    36  submit the following information, at a minimum:
    37    (1)  identification of services provided by the verification body, the
    38  industries that the body serves, and the locations where those  services
    39  are provided;
    40    (2)  a  detailed  organizational  chart that includes the verification
    41  body, its management structure, and any related entities; and
    42    (3) the verification body's internal conflict of interest policy  that
    43  identifies  activities and limits to monetary or non-monetary gifts that
    44  apply to all employees and procedures to monitor conflicts of interest.
    45    (c) Verification bodies shall not be authorized to provide services to
    46  a company where a conflict of interest exists. A  conflict  of  interest
    47  shall include:
    48    (i) where the verification body and reporting entity share any manage-
    49  ment  staff  or  board  of  directors  membership,  or any of the senior
    50  management staff of the reporting  entity  have  been  employed  by  the
    51  verification body, or vice versa, within the previous five years;
    52    (ii)  any  employee  of  the  verification  body, or any employee of a
    53  related entity, or a subcontractor who is a member of  the  verification
    54  team  has  provided  the  reporting  entity with services related to the
    55  areas of verification, or any services designated by the  department  of
    56  state, within the previous five years;

        S. 4746                             7

     1    (iii)  any  staff member of the verification body provides any type of
     2  non-monetary incentive to a reporting entity to  secure  a  verification
     3  services contract; and
     4    (iv) any additional criteria provided by the department of state.
     5    (d) Verification bodies that have been accredited by the department of
     6  state  shall  notify the department within thirty days if they no longer
     7  meet the verification requirements set forth by this section.
     8    6. Enforcement. (a) The requirements imposed  on  fashion  sellers  by
     9  this  section  shall  be  monitored,  investigated,  and enforced by the
    10  attorney general or an administrator designated by the attorney  general
    11  to bring civil proceedings for an injunction, monetary damages, or civil
    12  performance  of  a  statutory duty. Fashion sellers shall be deemed non-
    13  compliant with this section if they fail to conduct effective due  dili-
    14  gence  pursuant to subdivision two of this section or fail to file a due
    15  diligence report pursuant to subdivision three of this section.
    16    (b) The attorney general, or the attorney general's designated  admin-
    17  istrator  as applicable, shall annually publish and make publicly avail-
    18  able a report regarding compliance with this section, listing the  fash-
    19  ion  sellers who are known to be out of compliance with this section and
    20  including an up-to-date report on the attorney general's  monitoring  of
    21  such compliance.
    22    (c)  Fashion  sellers  found to be out of compliance with this section
    23  after the attorney general, or the attorney general's designated  admin-
    24  istrator as applicable, has provided notice of non-compliance, and after
    25  a  three-month period to meet obligations under this section has lapsed,
    26  may be fined up to two percent of annual revenues. Such fines  shall  be
    27  deposited  in  the community benefit fund established by section ninety-
    28  seven-ccc of the state finance law.
    29    (d)  The attorney general, or the attorney general's designated admin-
    30  istrator shall use  a  risk-based  approach  in  enforcement  and  shall
    31  publish enforcement guidelines.
    32    (e)  Any person may report a violation of this section to the attorney
    33  general's office.
    34    (f) Any fashion seller shall be held jointly and severally liable  for
    35  the payment of wages of the employees of its tier one suppliers. For the
    36  purposes of this section, wages shall be inclusive of all moneys owed in
    37  accordance  with the law of the country of manufacture, including wages,
    38  overtime wages, paid leave, incentives, bonuses, severance and any other
    39  form of payment or compensation.  For  the  purposes  of  this  section,
    40  employee  shall  include  all  workers,  whether full-time or part-time,
    41  permanent or fixed-term, directly contracted or hired indirectly through
    42  an agency or other intermediary. Fashion sellers  shall  be  liable  for
    43  payment  of  lost  wages  and  an  additional equal amount as liquidated
    44  damages.
    45    § 3. The state finance law is amended by adding a new  section  97-ccc
    46  to read as follows:
    47    § 97-ccc. Fashion remediation fund.  1. There is hereby established in
    48  the  joint  custody of the comptroller, the commissioner of taxation and
    49  finance, the commissioner of environmental conservation, and the commis-
    50  sioner of labor a special fund to be known as  the  fashion  remediation
    51  fund.
    52    2.  Such  fund shall consist of all moneys deposited pursuant to para-
    53  graph (c) of subdivision six of section three hundred ninety-nine-mm  of
    54  the general business law.
    55    3.  The  moneys  in  the  fund shall be expended by the comptroller in
    56  consultation with the  department  of  environmental  conservation,  the

        S. 4746                             8

     1  department  of labor and relevant stakeholders for the purpose of imple-
     2  menting one or more environmental benefit projects or labor  remediation
     3  projects  that  directly and verifiably benefit the workers and communi-
     4  ties  directly  impacted, to the extent practicable, at the location the
     5  injury has occurred.
     6    4. On or before the first day of February each year,  the  comptroller
     7  shall  certify to the temporary president of the senate, and the speaker
     8  of the assembly, the amount of money deposited by  source  in  the  fund
     9  during  the  preceding  calendar year, as well as all disbursements from
    10  the fund during the preceding calendar year.
    11    5. Moneys shall be payable from the fund on the audit and  warrant  of
    12  the  comptroller  on vouchers certified and approved by the commissioner
    13  of environmental conservation and the commissioner of labor, as applica-
    14  ble.
    15    § 4. The attorney general shall  certify  to  the  governor  that  the
    16  office  of  the  attorney  general  is  prepared  to  execute the duties
    17  assigned in subdivision 6 of section 399-mm of the general business  law
    18  within  one year following the effective date of this act. If, after the
    19  expiration of one year, the  attorney  general  requires  more  time  to
    20  certify  that  the office of the attorney general is prepared to execute
    21  such duties, the attorney general may, for good cause  shown,  apply  to
    22  the governor for an extension of time. The governor may grant or deny an
    23  extension of up to one year according to their discretion.
    24    § 5. This act shall take effect immediately; provided, however, subdi-
    25  vision  6  of  section  399-mm  of  the general business law as added by
    26  section two of this act shall take effect one year  after  the  attorney
    27  general certifies that the office of the attorney general is prepared to
    28  execute  the  duties  assigned in such subdivision. The attorney general
    29  shall notify the legislative bill drafting commission  upon  the  occur-
    30  rence of such certification in order that the commission may maintain an
    31  accurate and timely effective data base of the official text of the laws
    32  of  the  state of New York in furtherance of effectuating the provisions
    33  of section 44 of the legislative law and  section  70-b  of  the  public
    34  officers law.
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